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[ka-chunk]

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[CHONK - blower motor starts]

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No, that's not some special shop heater&nbsp;
designed to work with electric car chargers,

00:00:21.167 --> 00:00:29.829
in fact it's an ordinary shop heater which I&nbsp;very-slightly modified 
so I can use my&nbsp;charging station to power it.

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And I did this for&nbsp;two reasons:

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One, to hopefully demonstrate in a way 
which is a little more intuitive than in&nbsp;my previous videos

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that these charging stations are nothing but slightly smart power cords 
(a&nbsp;fact which I'll explain more later on) and two:

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Because this is a product that I wanted
 and&nbsp;that I think should exist but it currently doesn't exist so I made one!

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However, my&nbsp;hacked-together version is missing a few key features 
which would make the product&nbsp;more useful and safer,

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so this should simply be viewed as a proof-of-concept.

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I understand the risks I’m taking here 
and this is definitely not ready for prime time&nbsp;as I built it.

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So don’t try this at home.

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For those of you who might not know what these are,&nbsp;
these are just really powerful forced-air electric heaters.

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That’s all.

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Here in the US, thanks&nbsp;to our weedy little plugs and relatively low household voltage, ordinary plug-in space&nbsp;heaters like this top out at 1,500W.

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Which is plenty of heat for even a fairly large room, assuming it’s&nbsp;well-insulated,
 but if you’re trying to warm up, say, a cold garage -

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it’s going to take a heater&nbsp;like this absolutely forever if it can even manage it.

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But this heater can pump out 7,500W of heat.

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That’ll heat up the garage a whole heckuva lot faster, five times faster, in fact,

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which would&nbsp;be great since I’m about to do something of a garage reorganization project and I picked&nbsp;the exact wrong time of the year to do it.

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But there’s a problem:

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these things need&nbsp;a 240V circuit to operate, 
and usually that means hardwiring them.

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This unit doesn’t&nbsp;have a power cord at all - you’re
 expected to permanently mount it somewhere,

00:02:18.971 --> 00:02:28.016
run electrical&nbsp;conduit to one of these knock-outs and directly wire it to the appropriate circuit using the lugs&nbsp;in its electrical compartment.

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That’s quite a lot of work for a $150 electric heater
 which I’m only going&nbsp;to be using occasionally.

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Portable high-powered shop heaters are available - here’s a nearly 5 kW&nbsp;model...

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but that presents the same issues.

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Yes, it has a power cord but it has a NEMA 6-30&nbsp;plug on the end of it which, 
while receptacles for it do exist, are not common at all.

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I don’t have one of those in my&nbsp;garage so that heater would be no use to me.

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Ah but as it happens I already have a hefty&nbsp;
240V circuit installed in my garage for my charging station.

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It feeds a NEMA 14-50 receptacle&nbsp;
which powers the charging station itself.

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Now, in theory I could just buy a range cord like this&nbsp;
and then wire it up to the heater.

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So long as this was long enough to reach the receptacle 
from where I&nbsp;want the heater to go,

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I could unplug my charging station from the wall 
and then plug in the heater&nbsp;whenever I want to use it.

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But that solution is kludgy - the cord hanging down right next to&nbsp;
the other one would annoy me very muchly, but also (and most importantly)

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these chonky monster&nbsp;plugs are a right pain in the butt to use.

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They are simply not designed for frequent plug insertion and removal.

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They’re also kind of terrifying.

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The plug on the other end of the charging station,&nbsp;
though - that one was explicitly designed to be used regularly.

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This is a J1772 connector which,&nbsp;I should note, is in the beginning stages 
of being superseded by the J3400 connector here in North&nbsp;America,

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a charging connector previously exclusive to Tesla cars.

00:04:13.357 --> 00:04:20.091
The change is mostly just physical: passive adapters 
which convert between those two plugs are already available.

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In fact, here’s the&nbsp;one that I keep in my car for AC charging.

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So the change is not a big deal - I’m only bringing it up because before too long
 this specific connector will stop being so common

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but the basic&nbsp;gist of this video would be 
exactly the same if I were using a J3400 AC charger.

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I would just be&nbsp;installing a different charge port on the heater.

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Anyway, the critically important thing to understand about 
electric&nbsp;car chargers like this is that… they are not battery chargers!

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These don’t&nbsp;do any power conversion or voltage regulation or anything like that.

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This charging station&nbsp;simply checks to make sure things are safe and then uses a contactor inside the enclosure to&nbsp;energize the cable -

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with a nice loud clack.

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[CLACK]

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And that’s all it does!

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When that green light is on,&nbsp;the charging station is simply sending 
the 240V AC power that’s coming from the wall straight to the&nbsp;car,

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and the car itself does the necessary power handling to charge up its battery pack.

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Car charging&nbsp;was designed this way because
the car’s battery pack could be any number of configurations.

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It might be a higher voltage than another car, or it might use a different battery chemistry -&nbsp;down the road it might even have a solid-state battery.

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Creating vehicle charging infrastructure&nbsp;
which is specific to a battery pack voltage and chemistry just doesn’t make any sense:

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it would keep becoming obsolete as better batteries appear.

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So we’ve never done&nbsp;that, we just give the car raw electricity.

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Now, I will note that DC fast charging - done by&nbsp;those
 really big chargers that look something like a gas pump

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and offer dozens or even hundreds of&nbsp;kilowatts of power output - 
that’s a whole other kettle of fish which is not relevant to this&nbsp;video.

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But, if you’ll indulge me in making a rather important point
 that many people haven't seem to have figured out yet,

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DC fast charging *should*&nbsp;only ever be necessary for road trips.

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I rarely ever use those things because I can charge at home,
and if policy makers had any&nbsp;idea what using an electric car is actually like,

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they’d be spending much more effort getting these&nbsp;
cheap things installed anywhere people live and work

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with a major focus on apartment complexes&nbsp;
and car-dependent places with street-parking only.

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Because once you know you are going to be able to charge your car where you&nbsp;park it,

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either overnight when you're asleep
 or during the workday when you're at work,

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you’re gonna stop worrying about how and where to&nbsp;charge it.

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Range anxiety just goes away.

00:07:01.893 --> 00:07:04.465
And these things are cheap. They should be everywhere.

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But anyway, back to the topic at hand.

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Since this&nbsp;often-so-called-but-not-actually charger is really just a big, high-current power cable delivering&nbsp;240V AC to an easy-to-use connector...

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it could do a lot more than just charge a car if we wanted.

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And&nbsp;I wanted!

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So I did.

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Which you saw at beginning.

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And which I will explain nextly.

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But there’s&nbsp;one very important thing to make clear before we start:

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despite how simple these charging devices&nbsp;are on the surface, 
they are doing one very, very important extra thing as they deliver power to a&nbsp;car:

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they announce over one of these two control pins 
how large the charging circuit the car is now&nbsp;attached to actually is.

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Which is critical for the car to know as it charges up.

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This heater&nbsp;won't understand that which is a problem.

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I’ll discuss the repercussions of that later in&nbsp;
the part where I talk about all the pitfalls of what I’ve just done here,

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but for this project, I&nbsp;bought this model of heater knowing that its power requirements are matched to the power my&nbsp;charging circuit and this charging station can provide.

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The heater draws 31.3 amps max, 
and&nbsp;my charging station can supply 32 amps continuously.

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That means to power this heater with that charging&nbsp;station,

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all I need to do is wire a J1772 charging inlet up to the heater’s power input

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and then&nbsp;somehow trick the charging station into thinking it’s plugged into 
a car which is requesting&nbsp;to charge when I plug it into the heater.

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That will cause the charger to close its contactor&nbsp;and boom - 
the heater will have the power it needs.

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Actually I’m hoping there won’t be a boom&nbsp;
but we’ll burn that bridge when we get to it.

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First, let’s handle the easy parts.

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I need to get&nbsp;power wires hooked up to the charging inlet.

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These connectors are a little fiddly to disassemble but&nbsp;eventually you can remove
 the pins which, in this case, you’re expected to solder to directly.

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The&nbsp;three largest pins on the J1772 connector are, 
unsurprisingly, for handling the power:

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line 1,&nbsp;line 2, and a protective ground.

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Though the ground pin is slightly smaller so be sure to set it&nbsp;aside.

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I will not pretend that I’m great at this, and given how large these wires and pins are I&nbsp;
needed to use a butane torch to generate enough heat to melt the solder,

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but eventually I had all three power&nbsp;wires in-place 
and I could reassemble the connector.

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And just as a note - because this&nbsp;is going on a heater which will be indoors,

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I’m not bothering with the waterproofing&nbsp;components and that means 
that technically I haven't finished putting this together.

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But it’s together enough for my purposes.

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Of course the connector needs to be mounted&nbsp;on the heater itself 
and we need to get those power wires into the electrical compartment&nbsp;somehow.

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There’s a lot of open area behind the fan
 so I decided to drill a hole for and&nbsp;mount the connector here

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and then I ran the wires to a second hole I drilled 
which leads down into to theelectrical compartment.

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And whaddya know, inside there the heater's got a lug for line 1 and&nbsp;line 2, 
and there's a bonding point for grounding the body of the heater.

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So… just connect those&nbsp;three wires up to where they need to go.

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I got fancy this time and used ferrules for&nbsp;the power wires.

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And when it comes to those wires which goes where doesn’t matter:
this is&nbsp;split-phase 240 so there is no neutral.

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I know, it’s weird!

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But of course the ground wire&nbsp;needs to go to the grounding lug.

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And, when it comes to the power&nbsp;connections, we’re done.

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That’s it.

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Except, well right now if I plugged the charging&nbsp;cable into here, nothing would happen.

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The charging station won’t close its contactor&nbsp;
and energize the cable unless a car signals it to do so.

00:11:04.900 --> 00:11:09.289
And luckily for us, that signaling&nbsp;scheme is incredibly simple!

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The charging station sends out a pulsing 12V signal on the&nbsp;control pilot pin,

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and when connected to a car, the car will shunt the control pilot pin
to its&nbsp;chassis ground through a diode and a resistor.

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That causes a voltage drop on the signal pin&nbsp;
which the charging station can measure.

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And, when the charging station sees the right thing,&nbsp;it will energize the cable.

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I’m skipping over some details here but long story short:

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if I&nbsp;connect the control pilot pin to the heater’s ground through a diode 
and an 882 ohm resistor&nbsp;(or something close enough)

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the charging station should react as if a car is requesting power 
and&nbsp;thus it should close its contactor and energize the cable.

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And that’s why I also soldered this small&nbsp;wire to the control pilot pin -

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connecting it to the ground lug through that resistor and diode&nbsp;
should be enough to trick the charging station.

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So, with that done it was time to test it&nbsp;out.

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OK, so if this worked when I plug it in the charger should show “charging”

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[clack]

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and it does.

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The light is on so this should… just work.

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[clunk, blower starts]

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Pretty cool!

00:12:31.220 --> 00:12:33.381
That was quite easy.

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The most difficult part by far was figuring out
where to mount the&nbsp;connector and cutting a hole for it.

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Making the actual connections was fairly trivial.

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So now, all that’s left to do is hang this thing from the ceiling somewhere.

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This heater&nbsp;isn’t designed to be portable and it has 
some pretty specific mounting requirements so&nbsp;it should be installed permanently.

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But a nice benefit of this setup is that I can mount this thing
anywhere in my garage that my charging cord can reach.

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I decided to mount it close&nbsp;to the charging station
 just because that would be the most convenient spot,

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and with&nbsp;that done I’ve got a working shop heater!

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[clack]

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[CHONK]

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[hmmmmmm]

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Of course one downside here is that I can’t&nbsp;
charge my car and use the heater at the same time but…

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I really don’t think I’m ever gonna&nbsp;want or need that.

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For a start, I only need to charge my car about once a week.

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And when&nbsp;that day rolls around, 
I wait to charge it until the dead of night when electricity is cheapest -

00:13:43.229 --> 00:13:49.183
in fact I have the car programmed 
to only charge between 11:30 PM and 5:00 AM.

00:13:49.183 --> 00:13:53.427
So when I plug&nbsp;it in outside those hours it doesn’t actually start charging,

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instead it says “charging scheduled” and patiently&nbsp;waits until 11:30.

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If I’m not already asleep by then I will be soon and I’m not gonna keep the&nbsp;garage warm if I’m not out there actually doing something.

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And that’s really the point of this whole project!

00:14:10.830 --> 00:14:17.920
I have this high-powered, easy-to-use car charging thingamajig in my garage
 which only gets used about&nbsp;once a week.

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Why not make it useful for something else, too?

00:14:21.347 --> 00:14:28.838
And most importantly, this approach&nbsp;eliminates the need 
for running a new circuit and all the faff that entails -

00:14:28.838 --> 00:14:34.336
especially helpful&nbsp;for me since I only have 100A electrical service.

00:14:34.336 --> 00:14:44.946
I would have a pretty hard time getting an electrician&nbsp;to sign off on adding another 40A circuit to my already pretty full panel without getting a service&nbsp;upgrade.

00:14:44.946 --> 00:14:53.409
And a heater which can be powered by a car charger becomes especially useful&nbsp;
for those of you who have hard-wired car charging&nbsp;stations

00:14:53.409 --> 00:14:58.789
which can’t possibly be unplugged from&nbsp;the wall
 to use that circuit for something else.

00:14:58.789 --> 00:15:02.116
Of course using this heater is fairly expensive:

00:15:02.116 --> 00:15:11.434
it’s resistive electric heat, after all, and something slurping down 7.5 kilowatts costs&nbsp;me about one dollar per hour to use on average.

00:15:11.434 --> 00:15:16.068
But at the same time, this thing isn't gonna run constantly.

00:15:16.068 --> 00:15:22.512
If it’s extremely cold outside 
it might run for an hour or so when I first switch it on

00:15:22.512 --> 00:15:28.018
but&nbsp;after that point it’s gonna be cycling on and off 
as its thermostat regulates the room temperature,

00:15:28.018 --> 00:15:35.519
so the overall cost to use this won’t actually be any higher
 than if I let an ordinary space&nbsp;heater handle the job.

00:15:35.519 --> 00:15:41.081
This level of power is all about getting the cold garage warm&nbsp;quickly,

00:15:41.081 --> 00:15:47.074
and it’s not actually necessary for maintaining a 
toasty warm temperature&nbsp;out there since it’s pretty well-insulated.

00:15:47.074 --> 00:15:56.425
Speaking of toasty warm garages, this heater&nbsp;also lets me illustrate
 one of the coolest things about the big batteries found in electric cars.

00:15:56.425 --> 00:16:03.425
When this thing is running, it’s pulling just about the same amount of power 
as my car does when&nbsp;it’s charging its battery pack.

00:16:03.425 --> 00:16:13.974
So after one hour of running nonstop, the heater consumes the same&nbsp;
7.5 kilowatt-hours that my car does after one&nbsp;hour of charging.

00:16:13.974 --> 00:16:18.671
Running the heater for an hour&nbsp;makes the garage pretty warm!

00:16:18.671 --> 00:16:24.934
That much energy increased the room temperature from 
54 degrees&nbsp;up to 78 degrees!

00:16:24.934 --> 00:16:27.341
(that’s about 12 to 26 Celsius)

00:16:27.341 --> 00:16:32.394
and that test was filmed at night when it&nbsp;was slightly below freezing outside.

00:16:32.394 --> 00:16:39.153
Yet, when the car charges up its battery for an hour,&nbsp;
despite consuming the same amount of energy,

00:16:39.153 --> 00:16:46.534
the garage only warms up very slightly, 
barely&nbsp;enough to notice even after hours of charging.

00:16:46.534 --> 00:16:54.060
That’s because the vast majority of the energy my&nbsp;
car takes from the wall isn’t released into the room as heat!

00:16:54.060 --> 00:17:00.639
Instead it’s stored as a chemical reaction&nbsp;inside its battery pack for use later.

00:17:00.639 --> 00:17:08.319
That process isn’t perfectly efficient, but it’s close&nbsp;-
only a few hundred watts are lost when charging the battery cells,

00:17:08.319 --> 00:17:12.772
so only a few hundred watts&nbsp;of heat are released by the car when it's charging -

00:17:12.772 --> 00:17:21.562
even though it is in fact consuming the&nbsp;very same
seven thousand five hundred watts that this giant heater does.

00:17:21.562 --> 00:17:27.945
And now that&nbsp;I have this thing which lets me feel 
just how hot 7.5 kilowatts of electricity actually&nbsp;is -

00:17:27.945 --> 00:17:33.943
so hot that the air leaving the heater is over three hundred degrees Fahrenheit -

00:17:33.943 --> 00:17:39.922
I’ve got a pretty neat demonstration of how incredibly efficient electric car charging&nbsp;is.

00:17:39.922 --> 00:17:43.079
Batteries, turns out, are pretty cool.

00:17:43.079 --> 00:17:49.596
But now comes the part where I explain 
all of the&nbsp;ways what I’ve just done here is a bad idea.

00:17:49.596 --> 00:17:55.507
Remember when I said the charging station
announces to the car how&nbsp;big the charging circuit is?

00:17:55.507 --> 00:17:59.604
Yeah, so this charger (along with every other AC charger out there)

00:17:59.604 --> 00:18:09.294
is&nbsp;modulating that 12V signal on the control pilot pin to tell the car it’s plugged into how many&nbsp;amps it is allowed to draw from the circuit.

00:18:09.294 --> 00:18:15.248
That needs to be communicated to the car 
because the&nbsp;car is the actual electrical load:

00:18:15.248 --> 00:18:20.396
this thing, as I hope you understand by now, 
is just a power&nbsp;cable and a switch,

00:18:20.396 --> 00:18:25.548
but charging circuits? 
They come in all sorts of sizes.

00:18:25.548 --> 00:18:30.067
I’m gonna skip over the weeds&nbsp;about 
continuous loads and the 80% rule here

00:18:30.067 --> 00:18:40.692
but the important part is an actual car will use&nbsp;the charger’s control pilot signal as a sort of speed limit and lower its charging current&nbsp;to match what it tells it.

00:18:40.692 --> 00:18:46.327
For instance, my car can pull 48 amps to charge at over 11 kilowatts,

00:18:46.327 --> 00:18:53.001
however it knows&nbsp;when it’s plugged into this charging station 
that it’s only allowed to pull 32 amps.

00:18:53.001 --> 00:18:57.066
So that’s&nbsp;what it does, charging at about 7.5 kilowatts.

00:18:57.066 --> 00:19:05.810
This heater has no idea what that signal is 
and&nbsp;even if it did, it can’t lower its power draw to match the signal.

00:19:05.810 --> 00:19:16.630
For me in my garage with this&nbsp;heater and that charger, that’s no problem - 
I know this thing has a maximum current&nbsp;draw slightly below 32 amps.

00:19:16.630 --> 00:19:20.995
But if I were to, say, visit my parents with this thing

00:19:20.995 --> 00:19:22.435
[holy transition, batman!]

00:19:22.435 --> 00:19:24.376
well now it's a problem.

00:19:24.376 --> 00:19:33.437
Their charger, because it’s connected to a smaller circuit, 
is&nbsp;configured to tell any car plugged into it that it can only safely pull 24 amps

00:19:33.437 --> 00:19:35.875
which&nbsp;is about 5.5 kilowatts.

00:19:35.875 --> 00:19:44.519
That is, for the record, more than plenty for charging a car overnight&nbsp;
unless you’re a supercommuter but it’s not enough to power this heater.

00:19:44.519 --> 00:19:53.304
Yet the connector I bodged onto it will still signal their charger
 to close the contactor and supply power so&nbsp;the heater will still work.

00:19:53.304 --> 00:19:55.408
Which is bad.

00:19:55.408 --> 00:20:00.990
Now, if you haven’t already spotted it there&nbsp;
is actually a power selector switch on this thing.

00:20:00.990 --> 00:20:09.946
This heater is made up of three 2.5 kilowatt heating elements&nbsp;
and you can shut one of them off to turn it into a 5 kilowatt heater if you like.

00:20:09.946 --> 00:20:16.380
So if I do that - actually&nbsp;this is perfectly fine to use with this charging station.

00:20:16.380 --> 00:20:22.612
But I could also turn the third element&nbsp;back on and… that would become a problem.

00:20:22.612 --> 00:20:28.614
The circuit would now be overloaded 
and the wiring would&nbsp;start heating up which is not good.

00:20:28.614 --> 00:20:35.982
The 30A circuit breaker protecting the 10 gauge wiring
in this circuit should trip before things get too too spicy

00:20:35.982 --> 00:20:39.296
but we don’t want to be relying on&nbsp;that if we don’t have to.

00:20:39.296 --> 00:20:47.182
And it’s probably not enough to sell 
a high-powered device like this&nbsp;with a simple warning about circuit capacity.

00:20:47.182 --> 00:20:50.799
If I were put in charge of designing something&nbsp;like this for sale

00:20:50.799 --> 00:20:54.205
(which for the record I’m not saying would be a smart idea!)

00:20:54.205 --> 00:21:01.228
I would give it&nbsp;the logic circuitry necessary to 
understand the J1772 capacity signaling protocol

00:21:01.228 --> 00:21:05.543
and I’d&nbsp;use three separate relays for its heating elements.

00:21:05.543 --> 00:21:14.444
Then, when plugged in it could determine how many of those heating elements could be&nbsp;switched on given the max current signal coming from the charger.

00:21:14.444 --> 00:21:23.561
That would allow the same&nbsp;product to work safely on any charging circuit, 
even a weedy little 12A, 2.8 kilowatt&nbsp;supply.

00:21:23.561 --> 00:21:30.675
That wouldn’t be a whole lot more heat than a standard space heater
but&nbsp;2.5 kilowatts is still a 66% bonus.

00:21:30.675 --> 00:21:37.513
Or, if more product skus is your jam and you&nbsp;want
 more models for sale rather than a one-size-fits-all heater,

00:21:37.513 --> 00:21:46.188
at the very least&nbsp;each one should have enough smarts to refuse to operate if it detects that it’s connected&nbsp;to a smaller charging circuit than it needs.

00:21:46.188 --> 00:21:52.856
That’s not the only problem that would need to&nbsp;be tackled, though: 
there’s also the issue of electrical arcing.

00:21:52.856 --> 00:22:02.533
That’s a fairly small&nbsp;problem in the grand scheme and it’s not much of a safety issue, really, but it could&nbsp;potentially become one given enough time and misuse.

00:22:02.533 --> 00:22:06.611
When an actual car gets connected to a&nbsp;charging station like this,

00:22:06.611 --> 00:22:14.122
the contactor closes and energizes the cable
 before the car starts&nbsp;drawing any power from the circuit.

00:22:14.122 --> 00:22:17.407
Likewise, when the car is disconnected from the charger,

00:22:17.407 --> 00:22:20.361
pressing the latch on the handle [clicky clicky]

00:22:20.361 --> 00:22:28.520
it actuates a switch which signals to the car through the proximity pilot pin 
to stop pulling&nbsp;power, which it does almost instantly.

00:22:29.040 --> 00:22:35.848
Both of those actions ensure 
that no electrical&nbsp;connections are made or broken while under&nbsp;a load,

00:22:35.848 --> 00:22:40.998
and this prevents electrical arcing&nbsp;
which damages electrical contacts over time.

00:22:40.998 --> 00:22:44.759
This heater, uh, well it’s not that smart.

00:22:44.759 --> 00:22:48.204
It’s&nbsp;got no logic circuitry in there whatsoever:

00:22:48.204 --> 00:22:53.048
it’s just got a basic bimetallic thermostat&nbsp;(which also serves as the power switch),

00:22:53.048 --> 00:22:59.771
a high-temperature limit switch to shut it&nbsp;down if it’s overheating 
(as would happen quite quickly if the fan motor were to fail),

00:22:59.771 --> 00:23:03.555
and,&nbsp;uh well, a contactor of its own.

00:23:03.555 --> 00:23:09.681
As a side note, 
that contactor is actually pretty impressive&nbsp;for such a cheap and basic thing.

00:23:09.681 --> 00:23:15.039
It’s a three-pole contactor with each heating element&nbsp;
getting its own set of switch contacts,

00:23:15.039 --> 00:23:22.863
so each contact is only switching about 10 amps&nbsp;despite being rated for 32 - 
enough for each one to switch the whole thing!

00:23:22.863 --> 00:23:29.443
That’s mighty impressive compared&nbsp;to the single-pole contactor 
in the central air conditioner we looked at a couple years ago.

00:23:29.443 --> 00:23:35.021
And&nbsp;that thing’s gotta switch two big motors 
which makes for very sparky connections!

00:23:35.021 --> 00:23:39.574
I’m mildly annoyed&nbsp;this cheap heater got such a nice contactor.

00:23:39.574 --> 00:23:44.617
Anyway, if the thermostat’s switch is&nbsp;closed when you plug the heater in,

00:23:44.617 --> 00:23:51.421
then the moment the heater is supplied with&nbsp;240V, it’s gonna start pulling power.

00:23:51.421 --> 00:23:55.832
In theory, that’s not actually a problem when plugging the&nbsp;heater in.

00:23:55.832 --> 00:24:01.891
Its contactor has to physically move the contacts inside of it 
in order to power&nbsp;the heating elements

00:24:01.891 --> 00:24:07.953
so there’s a small delay between when the contactor 
in the car&nbsp;charger closes and when that contactor closes.

00:24:07.953 --> 00:24:08.968
[Ka-clack!]

00:24:08.968 --> 00:24:15.086
That should mean any potential&nbsp;arcing 
is limited to the contactor inside of here, which is normal.

00:24:15.086 --> 00:24:23.122
But if you unplugged the heater&nbsp;while it was running...
 well now we’re definitely gonna have an arcing problem.

00:24:23.122 --> 00:24:30.019
The button on the&nbsp;charge handle will not do anything, 
so the heater will keep drawing current as you remove the plug.

00:24:30.019 --> 00:24:37.920
And that could cause some nasty arcing on the charging connector contacts 
which could damage&nbsp;them and lead to overheating down the road.

00:24:37.920 --> 00:24:42.662
But the arcing could also happen&nbsp;inside the charging station.

00:24:42.662 --> 00:24:48.920
If, as you remove the plug, the control pilot pin&nbsp;
lost connection before the power pins do,&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:24:48.920 --> 00:24:53.920
then the charging station will open its&nbsp;own contactor and de-energize the cable,&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:24:53.920 --> 00:24:56.470
cutting off power to the heater.

00:24:56.470 --> 00:25:03.750
But that’s also not great - now the charging station 
has to interrupt the full&nbsp;30-ish amps the heater is pulling

00:25:03.750 --> 00:25:06.162
and it’s not really designed for that.

00:25:06.162 --> 00:25:10.509
Some car chargers use&nbsp;the same sort of contactor that’s in the heater,

00:25:10.509 --> 00:25:20.497
but others (like this Grizzl-E charger or this cheap Amazon thing) 
use what&nbsp;are basically large relays which, while they can open under load,

00:25:20.497 --> 00:25:24.098
aren’t really expected to do that&nbsp;repeatedly.

00:25:24.098 --> 00:25:32.989
It’s really only for emergencies such as when the charger detects a fault 
and repeatedly breaking&nbsp;that much current could damage it with time.

00:25:32.989 --> 00:25:36.995
Now, the severity of that arcing problem&nbsp;is debatable.

00:25:36.995 --> 00:25:42.560
I may be making a big deal out of nothing, 
this is mostly a resistive&nbsp;electrical load after all.

00:25:42.560 --> 00:25:45.324
But in any case there’s an easy solution:

00:25:45.324 --> 00:25:52.809
just turn the heater&nbsp;off before unplugging it 
and also never turn it on before plugging it in.

00:25:52.809 --> 00:26:00.705
Since I’m the one who put&nbsp;this together and I’m probably gonna be the only person to ever use it I’m reasonably sure those&nbsp;instructions will be followed

00:26:00.705 --> 00:26:06.764
but for a product sold to the general public, 
you can’t count&nbsp;on instructions like that alone.

00:26:06.764 --> 00:26:13.564
So for a real product, I would make sure it can detect the&nbsp;
request-to-unplug signal coming from the latch button

00:26:13.564 --> 00:26:17.459
that way it can shut itself&nbsp;down as you reach to unplug it.

00:26:17.459 --> 00:26:25.688
Or at the very least I would add a mechanical interlock&nbsp;to the connector
which prevents removal of the plug while the heater is running,

00:26:25.688 --> 00:26:28.447
and there are&nbsp;a whole bunch of potential ways to do that.

00:26:29.480 --> 00:26:34.880
But whether an actual product like this&nbsp;
could ever be sold is an open question.&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:26:34.880 --> 00:26:39.240
Obtaining safety certification for it&nbsp;
would probably be a bit of a nightmare,&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:26:39.240 --> 00:26:43.640
and that’s assuming the 
Society of Automotive Engineers wouldn’t send you a nastygram&nbsp;&nbsp;

00:26:43.640 --> 00:26:49.052
demanding that you pull the product from the&nbsp;
shelves for misusing one of their precious&nbsp;standards.

00:26:49.052 --> 00:26:54.132
Then again, if this 4,800 watt&nbsp;portable shop heater is a product for sale,

00:26:54.132 --> 00:27:04.680
it seems to me like the only real headache&nbsp;would be convincing… whoever needs convincing that products other-than-cars should&nbsp;be able to use a car charging station.

00:27:04.680 --> 00:27:07.340
And I think there’s a case to be made for that.

00:27:07.340 --> 00:27:14.093
One of the most annoying things about the 
North American electrical system is all these dang&nbsp;plugs.

00:27:14.093 --> 00:27:17.740
Have you seen the Wikipedia article on NEMA connectors?

00:27:17.740 --> 00:27:20.506
Yeah there are simply way too&nbsp;many of them.

00:27:20.506 --> 00:27:26.793
They are cleverly designed to be physically incompatible 
that way you can’t put&nbsp;the wrong plug into the wrong hole

00:27:26.793 --> 00:27:34.395
but that means you’re pretty much only ever installing them 
for&nbsp;dedicated things like a dryer, a kitchen range,

00:27:34.395 --> 00:27:36.680
or a car charger.

00:27:36.680 --> 00:27:47.328
Meanwhile we came up with this much&nbsp;nicer-to-use high-current connector that supplies up to 80 amps and broadcasts how much current can&nbsp;safely be pulled from it

00:27:47.328 --> 00:27:54.624
and I feel like it would be a shame to only ever use this
 (or the J3400&nbsp;connector) for electric vehicle charging.

00:27:54.624 --> 00:28:01.527
And, given what has happened with USB, 
it could&nbsp;easily be argued there’s already a precedent for this.

00:28:01.527 --> 00:28:03.478
But that’s all for now.

00:28:03.478 --> 00:28:06.302
Except, no, I forgot&nbsp;about one other thing.

00:28:06.302 --> 00:28:14.970
While most home charging stations are simply delivering AC power, 
and that's probably still gonna be the general case for quite some time,

00:28:14.970 --> 00:28:21.909
vehicle-to-home and vehicle-to-grid&nbsp;technology 
has the potential to make this a little messier.

00:28:21.909 --> 00:28:28.715
Already there are electric vehicles&nbsp;for sale which can 
backfeed power through their charge port to provide emergency power,

00:28:28.715 --> 00:28:32.631
in&nbsp;fact my car can do that, though it’s a pretty basic function.

00:28:32.631 --> 00:28:42.913
Other vehicles offer the ability&nbsp;to provide backup power for your entire house, 
and right now those solutions are all&nbsp;pretty bespoke and hardly standardized.

00:28:42.913 --> 00:28:48.438
But assuming we do create some sort of standard for that,&nbsp;
which it seems like we will,

00:28:48.438 --> 00:28:52.487
home charging stations are going to get more complicated.

00:28:52.487 --> 00:28:57.315
What&nbsp;precisely that’s going to look like in the future is anything but clear.

00:28:57.315 --> 00:29:04.536
I have a feeling they’ll&nbsp;still provide the same basic functions as this charger, 
delivering straight 240 when asked,

00:29:04.536 --> 00:29:07.999
and&nbsp;any new features will be layered on top of that.

00:29:07.999 --> 00:29:16.336
Plus for backfeeding the grid, the vehicle could&nbsp;(in theory anyway) 
just backfeed AC through the same dumb charging station -

00:29:16.336 --> 00:29:19.689
it doesn’t care which&nbsp;direction the current is flowing.

00:29:19.689 --> 00:29:21.720
At least I don’t think it does.

00:29:21.720 --> 00:29:29.762
But we already see some vehicles&nbsp;which are able to connect their 
battery packs to external devices and offload DC power -

00:29:29.762 --> 00:29:34.184
that’s how&nbsp;Ford’s Intelligent Backup Power works on the F-150 Lightning,

00:29:34.184 --> 00:29:40.089
and thanks to our split-phase power&nbsp;system where there’s a neutral wire the car’s usually not hooked up to,

00:29:40.089 --> 00:29:46.089
an external inverter&nbsp;is required for powering most of the stuff in your home when the power’s out.

00:29:46.089 --> 00:29:48.787
At least if&nbsp;you want to do it through the charge port.

00:29:48.787 --> 00:29:51.320
But that's a problem for future us.

00:29:51.320 --> 00:29:54.354
Now, this is actually the end of the&nbsp;video.

00:29:54.354 --> 00:30:02.209
I intend on keeping this car for many more years - it’s pretty much
 the perfect car&nbsp;for me and I have no reason to replace it.

00:30:02.209 --> 00:30:06.405
So this charging station is gonna hang around&nbsp;for a long while.

00:30:06.405 --> 00:30:12.220
And even if I get a new car, 
so long as I haven’t moved I’m still gonna&nbsp;use this charging station!

00:30:12.220 --> 00:30:19.608
It might have a different charge port but you can just stick an adapter 
on the end of there and then it becomes a J3400 charger.

00:30:19.608 --> 00:30:24.880
So, whenever the day comes that I have a new car 
and I want to use this heater? 

00:30:24.880 --> 00:30:28.208
I'll just take that adapter off and plug it in.

00:30:28.208 --> 00:30:35.062
And by the way, this 32 amp charging&nbsp;station is still 
massive, massive overkill for my needs!

00:30:35.062 --> 00:30:44.331
It completely charges my car from&nbsp;empty to full in 12 hours 
and the number of times I have actually needed to do that is zero.

00:30:44.331 --> 00:30:51.642
And if&nbsp;there were a second electric car in my household, 
I’m quite confident this single charger would take care of both.

00:30:51.642 --> 00:30:57.696
You don’t need two chargers in two-car households 
unless both drivers are supercommuters.

00:30:57.696 --> 00:31:01.094
Like, more than 100 miles a day each.

00:31:01.094 --> 00:31:05.039
If you made it this far, this is probably just gonna&nbsp;be preaching to the choir

00:31:05.039 --> 00:31:12.063
but the reason I like electricity so much is that, 
in case you haven't noticed, it can do…

00:31:12.063 --> 00:31:13.588
ANYTHING.

00:31:13.588 --> 00:31:21.466
The very same wires that go into this electrical panel 
and are powering my lights, TV, stereo&nbsp;system, computer, smart speakers

00:31:21.466 --> 00:31:25.894
and pinball machines can charge my car to take me places,

00:31:25.894 --> 00:31:29.000
cook my food to have a meal and in myriad ways,

00:31:29.000 --> 00:31:31.223
preserve my food in the refrigerator,

00:31:31.223 --> 00:31:34.281
heat and cool my home to keep me comfortable,

00:31:34.281 --> 00:31:37.685
and&nbsp;now they can heat my garage, too.

00:31:37.685 --> 00:31:44.674
Just imagine how much more work would have been involved 
running a gas&nbsp;line and venting for a gas-fired shop heater.

00:31:44.674 --> 00:31:49.355
And yes, my car is a little slower to charge&nbsp;when I’m on a road trip,

00:31:49.355 --> 00:31:55.523
but day-to-day I’m never stopping for gas 
on my way home from work or anywhere&nbsp;else.

00:31:55.523 --> 00:31:59.600
I just plug the car in and it charges while I sleep.

00:31:59.600 --> 00:32:04.779
Those of you who still refuse to&nbsp;see 
how awesome that is are really missing out.

00:32:05.667 --> 00:32:08.264
♫ modificatedly smooth jazz ♫

00:32:09.684 --> 00:32:15.268
No, that’s not some special shop heater&nbsp;designed to work with an electric car charger…

00:32:16.333 --> 00:32:18.106
[disappointed sighment]

00:32:20.000 --> 00:32:22.282
Seconds in and I flubbed a line

00:32:22.282 --> 00:32:26.538
Which is plenty of heat for even a fairly&nbsp;large room assoming it’s -

00:32:26.538 --> 00:32:27.840
assoming?

00:32:29.200 --> 00:32:31.320
Wow, this isn’t going great.&nbsp;

00:32:31.320 --> 00:32:35.560
But the basic gist of this video&nbsp;will be ex--- fraIdidaphetackbadadah&nbsp;

00:32:35.560 --> 00:32:38.170
Portable. Powered. Shop. Hi?

00:32:38.170 --> 00:32:42.741
…exactly the same if I were using a J3400 AC charger.

00:32:42.741 --> 00:32:45.556
I would&nbsp;just be installing 
[bong as plug hits heater]…

00:32:45.556 --> 00:32:47.582
great work, me!

00:32:47.582 --> 00:32:49.889
So I did! Which you saw at the&nbsp;beginning.

00:32:49.889 --> 00:32:52.402
And which whyweeuvd….

00:32:52.728 --> 00:32:53.615
oooops!

00:32:54.977 --> 00:32:59.254
I realized when I first tested the thing that I should have set "pretty hot!" rather than pretty cool.

00:32:59.254 --> 00:33:02.497
Oh well, no sense getting hot and bothered over it.

00:33:02.497 --> 00:33:07.322
Though maybe I should have said "the air coming out of this is so hot you could use it as an air fryer..."

00:33:07.322 --> 00:33:10.755
must. resist. executing. silly. idea.

